February

If exceptionally cold weather is forecast, provide protection to early flowering or tender plants by covering them with some type of cloth material. Remove the covering as soon as the weather moderates again.

SHRUBS and TREES

  • Deciduous shrubs and trees are still dormant enough to transplant this month, once the buds have begun to swell, it will be to late. Click these links for information on transplanting azaleas or moving specimen plants.
     
  • Trees that weren’t fed last fall should be deep fed by punching a series of 1-2 inch holes two feet apart around the drip line and filled with an appropriate food. A mulch of well composted manure is also an excellent treat for your tree.
     
  • Mid to late February is the time to fertilize shrubs and evergreens. Use an acid type rhododendron fertilizer to feed evergreens, conifers, broad leaf evergreens, rhododendrons, azaleas and camellias. Use an all-purpose fertilizer to feed roses and other deciduous trees and shrubs. If you use dry type fertilizers, be sure to water it in thoroughly.
     
  • Prune your summer flowering shrubs now but be aware that spring bloomers have already produced their buds last fall, and pruning them now will result in the loss of flowers. Forsythia, quince, spirea and other early spring flowering shrubs should be pruned a little later, after they have finished flowering. Pruning to improve the shape of the plant, as well as to open up the center of the plant to good air circulation and sun exposure. Always start your pruning by removing all dead, decayed or broken branches.
     
  • Trim back any branches that were damaged by the ravages of winter.
     
  • Apply dormant oil fruit spray.
PERENNIALS, ANNUALS and BULBS
  • Plants, which may have been pushed out of the ground by frost heave, should be pressed firmly back into place.
     
  • Plant daylilies, bleeding hearts, and plantain lilies this month.
     
  • Deciduous vines such as honeysuckle should be pruned and shaped.
     
  • Most perennials may be divided and moved up until they begin to show new growth.
     
  • Check your stored plants such as fuschias and geraniums, and if they are shriveled water them lightly.
     
  • Summer flowering bulbs may try to start into growth if they are subjected to heat. They should be kept very dry, and stored at 45 degrees F. If they are shriveling, put them into slightly damp peat moss, but keep them cool!
     
  • If you plan to grow lobelia, ageratum, verbena, petunia, vinca, or other slowing plants from scratch, the seeds should be started indoors in the later part of the month. For more information see growing plants from seeds.
     
  • Thin last years tangled growth on your climbing roses, fruit trees and vegetables.
     
  • Water all bulbs during times of growth and especially during foliage and bloom development. Irrigate summer-flowering bulbs during dry weather. Keep water off foliage and blooms.
     
  • Fertilize tulips as foliage appears and make another application after flowering. Fertilize all other spring-flowering bulbs after flowering. Apply 2 pounds of 5-10-10 or 6-12-12 per 100 square feet. Daffodils and tulips should be fertilized again in early to mid-August.
     
  • If you heavily mulched marginally hardy bulbs to survive winter, pull back the mulch toward the end of winter. This prevents premature growth as the sun warms the soil.
ODDS and ENDS
  • Houseplants may notice the longer days, and begin growing. You can begin feeding them again, but use a dilute 50% fertilizer mix until the growth is robust.
     
  • Continue feeding our feathered friends, you'll want them to stick around to help you in insect control when the weather warms again.
     
  • Prepare your garden tools. Get your mower back in shape as well.
     
  • In the event of snow, be sure to shake or brush off the white stuff from the branches of your evergreens and shrubs.
     
  • Turn the compost pile.
 
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